Words : Vijayalekshmi.S
Photos : © Travelbird

THE RAIN COUNTRY
    In Harmony with Nature
                               

All along the way to our destination, blue mountains kept us company. Soon we were climbing up those walls made by nature leaving behind one hair-pin bend after another. We had already had a long drive but the deep gorges covered with thick forests kept our eyes open and steady. Gorges on one side and huge rocks and tress with small clear cascades between them on the other. And lots of monkeys trying their luck at a bite with the passers-by. It was noon when we reached Lakkidi and turned right to a narrow road near the legendary Chain Tree.

It seemed to be a private road with a few institutions along its steep zigzag path up a hill. In ten minutes time, we left behind all those buildings and entered a mud track that seemed to go into the forests. The forest soon cleared on one side for lush tea plantations.'Beyond the gate was a small inconspicuous wooden sign board with the words 'Rain Country' written on it' The drive was bumpy, but the beautiful and silent ghat terrain was worth all the bone rattling. The path then wound up through thick undergrowth until it came to a big iron gate. Beyond the gate was a small inconspicuous wooden sign board with the words Rain Country written on it. It was nearly three and a half kilometers from the main road.

There was nothing except that sign board to indicate that we were actually in the resort premises. A traditional Kerala style roof could be seen behind the laterite mass which confronted us and we drove up to it. There was a reception counter on the verandah of the building which in fact was a large room set for recreation and small meetings. A new reception area was well on its way in a small building nearby, which was again built in the unassuming but distinct architectural style of Kerala. After the formalities, which took only a few minutes, we were shown up the path to a wide open area which unfolded before our eyes a haven of sorts.

There was a natural green wall that rose high with shrubs, trees, huge rocks, and a pond nestled at its foot to our right. The pond was manicured on this side with granite and laterite stone steps. We parked our car in the open ground beside the pond. The area was shaded by trees and a couple of geese welcomed us with their friendly quacks. There was a tiny thatched hut, a hammock and a swing between the trees. An iron bridge going over a small stream led the way to a building that was fairly large in size (it was the restaurant) and some cottages up the hill. It was thirty minutes past two and we were damn hungry. But we had to check in first.

Quaint cottages

The manager of the resort took us down some steps and then along a very small iron bridge. Beneath us, the clear water of the stream was rushing over rocks and stones of varying sizes. And in an area covered with trees and rich undergrowth, there stood a wooden cottage. There were two bedrooms in it with walls made of wood in the strict old Kerala style. The bathrooms had basic modern amenities. But the windows of the room, with wooden bars, were characteristically small and there was a dearth of light in the rooms. We opted for another one.

We were shown one of the independent one-bedroom cottages up a hill, built in the traditional way of course, but with brick and mortar. The room was quite large and airy with large windows with wooden bars, and plenty of natural light dimmed by bamboo reed curtains. The furniture was simple but sufficient. Flooring was done with small terracotta tiles and the roof with wooden rafters and Mangalore tiles. Even the lamp-shades and latches to the doors and windows conformed to the old-world norms. The only part of the room that did not tag along the rest was the bathroom which was quite complete with modern facilities and a bath tub. Though the surroundings were less charming with no trees around, we decided to settle in.

The resort offered room service, but we decided to take our lunch in the restaurant. Tables were set on the wide verandah of the building facing the open ground, the pond and the beautiful landscape beyond. The sight was invigorating. They serve only traditional Kerala fare for the lunch, they tell us. The meal was sumptuous with sambar and other regular items and also a dish of Kerala Chicken Fry. There was also chappathi and dal. It was 3.30 in the afternoon when we finished our lunch. After spending some time among the trees we retreated to our cottage to take a little nap.

Kept at a 'natural' minimum

The sun was already beginning to set when we woke up and the area was pleasantly lit up with various hues of yellow and orange. After the tea we decided to take a walk around the place. There was not much hints at an attempt at gardening. Much of the area was left as it was. There was a little bit of pruned hedges and shrubs along the pond and the ground. And a row of garden lights all along the paths. There was a small play area for children with a few things like a swing, a merry-go-round, and a slide. We felt that the place needed to be spruced up a little with some more facilities and a bit of gardening. The recreation room also seemed to be lacking in the necessary apparatus and arrangements. We chose to sit on the wide veranda of that large room enjoying the gentle breeze which had the soothing touch of the woods around. Just an hour was enough for all of us to unwind and feel at peace with ourselves.

Dinner was announced ready by 8 o’clock. We were served Fried Rice, Gobi Manchurian and Chilli Chicken together with chappathi and dal. Dal-chappathi was fine but the remaining ones failed to measure up to them. There was not to be much choice as the dishes were made only on orders taken in advance. A fruit salad was also served as a dessert.

' The night was still, cool and calm. Solitary lights shone from where there were cottages up the hill 'The night was still, cool and calm. Solitary lights shone from where there were cottages up the hill. The only sound that we could hear was that of the water from the stream which ran pretty whole across the resort. We walked back to our little cottage and soon got under the blankets.

Exquisite birdsongs and the rays filtering through the bamboo blinds woke us up in the morning. We went out to the porch and sat there sipping our tea. Mountains touched the skyline on all sides. And below there, was a fine view of a good part of the resort – up to the pond and the hill. We took in the fresh morning air and relaxed – in fact, that seemed the perfect thing to do at this place.

Showcasing the 'old-world charm'

After a breakfast of idiyappam-stew, omlette, ada and grape juice, we set out to explore the resort in detail. The resort spread over 23 acres with no less than a capacity to accommodate 16 families. There were a 4-bedroom cottage (Rs.3000 + tax for each one), and a 3-bedroom Wooden Deluxe cottage (Rs.3800 + tax), ideal for groups out on holidaying. The Wooden Deluxe cottage, really an exclusive one, had an open-air bathroom to one of its rooms. The openings of the rooms were directed to three different directions which ensured privacy to each family accommodated there. It was the large old-style porches which provided the real charm with trees and rocks looming around. The cottage was up the hill, with a narrow path and a few granite steps leading the way up to it. The place is ideal for a real getaway.

We went down to the pond and walked further along its edges. We spotted another wooden cottage tucked among the woods up the hill. It was the honeymoon cottage, charming and romantically aloof (tariff – Rs.4800 + tax). Further down the hill, there were two twin-bedroom wooden cottages which come with a tariff of Rs.3300 plus tax for each room. The wood work of these cottages gave them an eerie smell. The independent cottages or the cottage rooms, one in which we had stayed, were 4 in number but the grounds around them were rather barren. We were told that the number of cottages would soon become 25 but no more than that lest the place become crowded.

Only those activities which nature permits…

I wanted to go trekking. There were so many trails from around the cottages going into the woods. But it had rained the previous day and a horde of leeches was probably out there ready to ooze out your blood, I was warned. Better to stay back and relax, I thought. Anyway the resort seemed to be tailor-made for that. The calm and fresh atmosphere with no claims to sophistication, and nature let free in its own natural way were bound to make one relax without actually being aware of it. I lay in a hammock strung by the side of the stream and stayed there listening to the sounds - the gurgling water, wind sifting through the leaves and the coquetry of tiny birds - which were all nothing but soothing.

The resort offered many activities for the guests to indulge in, depending on the season. They offer guides for forest trekking, take the interested ones for an adventure walk up the stream, in fact, through it, when there is plenty of water, and for a plantation visit (with vehicles for the aged ones) which was assured to be fantastic. The resort also arranges for sight seeing tours to other tourist destinations of Wayanad.

A resort sans sophistication but ideal for a getaway

The resort claims to showcase Kerala. It does so in a splendid way. The only other tag attached to it is being a haven of solitude and peace. That is also very much true. Still we felt that the resort could improve in many small ways… like donning the barren areas with a little bit of landscaping, bringing in a touch of professionalism to the food service, making the toiletries and bathrooms more up to date etc.

But the charm about the place was unmistakably its ability to unwind the tensions of city life. The peace and tranquility exuding from the natural green surroundings make it an ideal spot for a retreat. And those quaint cottages – ethnically designed to capture the old world charm with old-style interiors and old architectural features like wooden rafters and terracotta tiles– were in harmony with the nature around and perfect for lazy siestas. It is no wonder that tourists spill into this rather unsophisticated spot, hidden behind acres of jungles, for relaxation.

The place provided a succor to our souls. The only thing that we expected but missed in the Rain Country was the rains.

© travelbird