Words : Baiju.N.Nair
Photos : Jamesh Kottakkal

WAYANAD
    Neolithic Wilderness!
        Trekking the Forest Lanes of Western Ghats

The huge ficus tree had a strong iron chain tied to its aged trunk that visibly wore the scars of history deep into its marrow. We were at Lakkidy, the gateway to Wayanad and by the shade of a leafy monument. Under the cool shade we were reminded of a not-so-cool story, a blood chilling history in fact, with all the elements of a tragedy, and of an unsung hero.

We reached the high-land plains close to the fluffy welcoming clouds after a long steep drive, a virtual climb along the meandering highway that snaked through the lush green hills of the Western Ghats. It was the beginning of many a visit that we subsequently made to this land of mystic beauty. Picturesque, peaceful and unassuming, this area of wilderness that had more to explore than the eyes could meet.

'The tree-in-chains is the first sight that awaits the visitors who reach Lakkidi. The legend has it that the spirit of Karinthandan, the native tribal who showed the way to the English, was chained to this tree...'The tree-in-chains is the first sight that awaits the visitors who reach Lakkidi. The legend has it that the spirit of Karinthandan, the native tribal who showed the way to the English, was chained to this tree. The White man who wanted the credit of finding a way to Wayanad from the main land all for himself killed his guide when his mission was accomplished. But the spirit of Karinthandan refused to die and the locals say that the ghost began to trouble the passers by. And there was no way out but to ‘chain the spirit’ to the tree. Another version has it that the spirit in shackles was of a great sorcerer and a tribal chieftain named Lakkidi who was killed by the British explorers.

The stories assume strange dimensions even as the unassuming veteran stand tall and green by the highway before the inquisitive travellers who take a break to unlearn a bit of colonial backlog. The iron chain has sunken deep into the trunk and the myth that surrounds it has rooted deeper in the minds of the natives. The tree has become a place of worship of sorts. A man cleaning the small temple close to the tree said the truck drivers use to stop by and pray for a safe journey up and down the hilly terrain. We resumed our journey, paying respects to one of the first known martyrs of colonization.

Estates, Peaks and Water falls

A few minutes’ ride and we spotted the sign board to Pookode Lake, a serene waterscape huddled between evergreen forests and rolling hills. A beautifully paved pathway surrounds the freshwater lake. There is an eco-shop at the entrance that sells ethnic products of Wayanad (We can see such shops at almost all the tourist centres in the district). The display had wild honey, curios, souvenirs and household articles made of bamboo.We bought some gooseberries marinated in honey, an ethnic delicacy. It tasted good. A feel of ease and a sunshine of happiness crept up slowly in to our veins as we sat on the veranda of the cafeteria sipping black coffee, for which the place is famous for and watching the small waves that glittered in the morning rays. Connoisseurs had always been in praise of the coffee grown in Wayanad as the misty mountains offered the perfect setting for coffee and tea.  Cheering groups of school children were getting ready for the boat ride. Their delighted expressions of excitement from the boats moving away from the docks broke the breezy calm of the lake even as the green drapery of the sleeping forest remained unruffled.

Now, on to the outdoor scenes of the Kalpetta-Ootty road, winding roads through the thick dark of coffee estates.  Very far on the right, we see a vague outline of the Chembra peak that rises up to the sky. There is a small track to the right from Meppadi, the only motorable road to the peak, a formidable challenge put up by the plateau of Wayanad for the adventure buffs. You’ve to pay a users’ fee to access the narrow road that winds through private tea estates. Driving through the serpentine paths for about 8 kms we reached an estate bungalow.' Beyond the light green carpet of the tea gardens, stands the Chembra peak towering over with an air of arrogance: Come up, if you dare!. ' The way further is a long mud path which is closed for vehicular traffic. The lake on the 2100mts high summit, we were told, never dries up and that one could enjoy the scenic beauty of the whole of Wayanad from over there. But to reach there, we have to tread tricky wild circuits, steep gradients, and exchange pleasantries with the leopards hanging around… Beyond the light green carpet of the tea garden, stands the Chembra peak towering over with an air of arrogance: Come up, if you dare!

 We dared not. But the invitation of the beautiful lake up there, and the sheer adventure of hiking all the way up the muddy path still linger with a sense of loss. (You can contact the District Tourism Promotion Council and have the details of the trekking. Ph No.04936-202134, 204441.)

Onward to Soochippara Falls, located in Chooral mala, 12 kms away from Meppadi. It was a 2km walk through a paved forest walkway and we got thoroughly tired after the trek in the hot sun. But it was worth the sweat. The fatigue melted past as we lay down under the cool of the trees on a rock watching the milky cascade splashing down from 200 mts high. The area holds scope for trekking. There was another water falls, a smaller one, Kanthanpara, 8 kms east of Meppadi. The Neelimala View Point near Vaduvanchaal is just 27 kms away from Kalpetta, from where you can have a wonderful view of the Meenmutty waterfalls, the highest in Wayanad. Meenmutty, a fall from 300mts is quite a feast for the eyes.

The next day we had Edakkal Caves, a prominent prehistoric site, first on our itinerary. This pre-historic site is located near Ambalavayal, on the Sultanbathery road. It takes a 26 km drive from Kalpetta to the base of the Ambukuthi hills where the caves are situated. Visitors had started pouring in by the time we arrived at the parking lot at Edakkal at 10.30am.

' The prehistoric caves have some of the most significant rock etchings that attracted archaeologists and historians worldwide. The images include a woman and a man standing on a vehicle which looked like a chariot, some geometric designs, an elephant and a bird. 'There is jeep service from the foothill up to the point from where the steep climb to the cave begins. A climb through the rocks, settled in the midst of clumps of trees, for about 50 mts will get you to the entrance of the caves. No inscriptions or engravings could be seen in the first cave. Again a steep climb upwards, carefully clutching on to the small iron stairs and we reached the second cave. This cave is believed to have formed when a huge rock fell over a gap of a 100 ft. length and 20 ft. width. The cave is about 30 ft. high. There is a slit of about a foot between the walls of the cave through which we can have a panoramic view of the villages thousands of feet below.

The prehistoric caves have some of the most significant rock etchings that attracted archaeologists and historians worldwide. The images include a woman and a man standing on a vehicle which looked like a chariot, some geometric designs, an elephant and a bird. The guide said the inscriptions are perhaps the praise of some tribal chieftain as one of them read that ‘the one who killed many leopards’. We felt the presence of a prehistoric tribal hero who roamed the place in the late Stone Age. As we climbed down the Neolithic monument we could feel a catch somewhere back in our minds.

Cattle-rafting!

The call of the Kuruva Island, a pristine uninhabited island was too tempting. It took us a 58 km drive from Kalpatta to reach the banks of the river Kabani. The last lap was literally a mud-race through seven kilometres of a pot-holed country road.

River Kabani diverges at Koodalkadavu to form the 950 acre Kuruva ridge before it gathers itself at Panikkal . The island is home to rare species of plants and a variety of birds and small animals. The District Tourism Promotion Council conducts the ferry service to the island. We waited for the ferry man and a soft drizzle set in. The river was in spate. Watching the muddy turbulence gushing past was a wonderful experience in itself. 'We used to graze the cattle in the isle when we were children,’ said Sajeev a local journalist who accompanied us. 'We used to cross the river clutching on to the tails of the cows.'  I fancied the unique river rafting mission on the cattle by the junior battalion as we ferried across the river and couldn’t help laughing.  

Joshy the ferryman skillfully balanced the canoe across the furious river. Taking hold of the branches of trees we negotiated through the marshy patch before reaching the firm ground beneath. I felt as if we had entered a majestic hall with big trees in place of carved pillars and an emerald canopy of treetops above. Far away, some bird was singing (could it be the Malabar Hornbill?). Lost in the fragrance of the pristine nature, we walked silently for a long time. The ambience was calm and soothing, raw and damp. The district tourism promotion council has some trekking packages on offer. Though the island is still to get in to the major tourist maps, the place has already become a favorite location for adventure tourists and forest campers.

The Temple in the Woods

Our next destination was Thirunelli, a shrine deep in the forest across elephant tracks and thick bamboo forests. For miles there was no sign of habitation except for an occasional vehicle passing by. It was almost dusk when we reached the Vishnu temple at Tirunelli (30 kms from Mananthavady).' Here the needs of the body, mind and soul meet...It’s a deeply spiritual journey deep in to the woods. 'The village of Tirunelli is situated at the foothills of the 5276 ft. high Brahmagiri Hills. The place is known as Thekkan Kasi or Kasi of the South. (Kasi is a very famous North Indian pilgrim place) At the temple here, the oblations and other rituals for the emancipation of the dead are performed.

The final rites to ancestors performed on the Pindappara here is said to be equivalent to Gaya Shrardham and the place is widely known as the seat of salvation. Here the needs of the body, mind and soul meet...It’s a deeply spiritual journey deep in to the woods.

Though there’s a steady flow of pilgrims, the place retains its scenic beauty, the reason why it attracts a lot of tourists as well, who often comes back again and again to be in the serene calm of the temple in the woods. The woods are lovely, dark and deep indeed. There are no trappings of a pilgrim town. The woods, fog and the hills around, play magic with their great vanishing trick. And soon we’d see the huge edifices of Brahmagiri vanishing in the thick foggy veil.

Even before dawn, Tirunelli had awakened to the routine rituals of Pitr Pooja (hindu rites for the ancestors). The temple is an impressive structure built with granite slabs and columns. A granite aqueduct ensures a copious supply of water into the temple (it has no well) from a natural spring called Varaha which is half a mile away. The serene calm ambience of the temple is to stay imprinted in our minds for years on.

The stone pavements behind the temple lead to a sacred pond Panchatheertha, once a confluence of five rivers, and the Papanashini river. A bath in the serene forest river is believed to have the power to wash off the worldly sins. The river is also known for its amazing medicinal properties and purifying powers. A walk through the wilderness along the stream will pull you on to another world. But it is time to get back.

We got over the temptation to go on a 7 km trek to Pakshipathalam and headed back to the world. We could see the remains of an old Jain temple on the way. It was in an abandoned state. Such temples in dilapidated condition could be seen at many places in Wayanad where Jainism had thrived long back.

The spectacular settings all the way through will wash your senses and prepare them to attain a new height. We experienced a sense of loss and took a vow to visit the place again. Here the needs of the body, mind and soul meet. It’s a deeply spiritual journey deep in to the woods.

© travelbird